Відео

Great question. Generally, same as for any 1/2" diameter bit. We recommend between 12-14,000 RPM. We also recommend cutting a relief groove 1/4" wide and 5/16" deep along the same centerline before making the Dovetail cut. The relief groove removes waste and allows more of the chips to exit the slot as you cut. It will improve the quality of the cut and greatly extend the life of your bit. You should cut relief grooves with any "undercut" bit like a dovetail or t-slot.

How come?

Needs a riving knife behind the blade to help prevent the twisting motion that often leads to kickback. I think it's unsafe to say this device prevents kickback because if you are assuming you can't cause kickback with it, you're not using the table saw responsibly because you absolutely can still cause kickback with this.

Was this with the GRR-RIPPER with the movable center leg or with our GRR-RIPPER 2GO that has the fixed legs? We did have a manufacturing issue with the rubber on the early GRR-RIPPER 2GOs, but have never had this issue with the GR-100 or GR-200. Please feel free to reach out to me at (855) 747-7233 and I will gladly replace whatever was bad. The current GR-2GOs do not have the problem you mention.

@@Microjig I was pleasantly surprised by Microjig's response and took them up on their request that I call them. They confirmed that I had indeed received one from them as a warranty replacement but it had come from the same batch that my original gripper came from so I essentially bought one bad one and they replaced under warranty with another bad one from the same batch. They sent me a new replacement for which I am grateful. It speaks volumes as to their dedication to customer service and product quality. Good job Microjig!

@@EOTE_TX Our pleasure. We try to treat our customers as we want to be treated.

True. We always recommend it, but folks can work how they want. We shared this video but did not create it.

We will be offering the SafeRip kit as an upgrade this fall to fit any existing GRR-RIPPER Center Leg.

Thank you. And if you do have questions in the future you can always call us directly at (855) 747-7233

You certainly can, especially if you plan on cutting parts with the blade angled. Pretty much all modern table saws are left tilt now. I generally do not use my 360 Sled with the blade beveled, so I use mine on the left.

The kit includes 3 Edge Guides, 2 Ring Clamps, 2 Ramp Clamps and 4 U-Pad overhead clamps, all the hardware needed for them, Nylon screws for mounting your spoil board and full instructions on making a highly efficient spoil board custom to your machine. There simply is no other parts on the market you can get to do the same work for the same price, let alone less.

This is the full introduction video which shows the kit more completely: ua-cam.com/video/eaCgoUQilVQ/v-deo.html

Do these work better than ones I can make out of wood? Pitch me bro..

@@johndavid3114 Way better. The edge guides are exactly 2" from the reference edge we show you how to cut into your Spoilboard, so you always have a known Zero. The edge guides, ring clamps and ramp clamps all feature a 3/16" thick contact edge so you can mill 1/4" thick stock. And all of the contact edged are beveled in so under pressure the part does not bow upward. The ring clamps are cams, but because the center hub does not turn to lock and unlock you never loosen them in use. The Ramp Clamps press down and forward as toy turn the knob for excellent hold. And finally, the U-Pads are overhead clamps made of glass-filled nylon so they are nearly unbreakable, and they hold the parts from the top and an edge to prevent moving under heavy milling loads. We designed this kit to be the hold downs that I wanted on my CNC.

YES! You use your CNC to mill the spoil board to fit your bed, so it will work with most brands and models. The MDF spoil board is attached to the bed of your machine. We supply nylon screws. If your machine does not have T-track like ours, you can add a couple threaded inserts to your machine bed. The manual includes full instructions for programming and cutting your spoil board.

Great to hear! It is just what most CNC and Laser folks need.

For the full 1-1/2" thickness, you need holes 1-1/8" diameter.

@@Microjig thank you.

We'll be happy to!

It is possible to get a new sticker. Reach out to us at support@microjig.com and we can send one.

Morgan has gone out on his own since this video was made, but you can find him here: www.morganhop.com/

@@Microjig is it possible to get link to the recessed vacuum port on the table

@@gstarmj reach out to Morgan Hop for that: www.youtube.com/@MorganHop

You are certainly welcome to your opinion, and you need to do what you feel is safe in your shop. However, even if you want to use your blade guard, there are times that you simply cannot. For example, when not cutting all the way through the stock like groove cuts and shoulder cuts. Or when using dado blades. Or when making any rip under about 1" in width, the blade guard does not fit between the blade and the fence. In each of these cases, the GRR-RIPPERs meet all of OSHA's requirements. And the GRR-RIPPER is highly useful on the router table, jointer and band saw as well as the table saw. Anywhere bits and blades want to bite you.

@@Microjig 1) non-through cuts are perfectly possible with a blade guard. Just not one supported by the riving knife. There are other designs. I use one such myself. 2) narrow cuts- you use an auxiliary low fence. Plenty of you tube videos to teach you how to do that. 3) H&S is not about meeting nationally set minimum standards. It is about local risk assessment. There are several thousand table-saw accidents in the US every year- most would be prevented if a blade guard was always used. An 'instructional video' (your claim) should feature safe operation- indeed, it should be the primary concern. Yes, the gripper can be useful on a router table etc- but not a table saw.

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Again, you do what you think is safe. Hundreds of thousands of GRR-RIPPERs have been sold for 22 years now. They are in use in shops all over the US and the world. Many production shops use them daily.

@@Microjig Not about thinking, it is about data. 50,000 table-saw accidents a year in the US.

You are certainly welcome to your opinion, and you need to do what you feel is safe in your shop. However, even if you want to use your blade guard, there are times that you simply cannot. For example, when not cutting all the way through the stock like groove cuts and shoulder cuts. Or when using dado blades. Or when making any rip under about 1" in width, the blade guard does not fit between the blade and the fence. And no, a crosscut sled that span the blade cannot reasonably be adapted to function with the blade guard. In each of these cases, the GRR-RIPPERs meet all of OSHA's requirements. And the GRR-RIPPER is highly useful on the router table, jointer and band saw as well as the table saw. Anywhere bits and blades want to bite you. Reply

Technically, a dado is a groove cut across the grain withing a piece of wood. Like the groove that holds a shelf in a cabinet or book case. The term has expanded to include grooves that run with the grain as well, like the groove that holds the bottom of a drawer box. A rabbet is when the groove is on the edge of a part so it is open on two sides.

The Dado Stop can cut dados up to 13/16" wide plus the width of the blade, so 15/16" with a full kerf blade, or 1-5/8" with a full 13/16" dado stack. Our Friend at Woodcademy did a video on using the Dado Stop with a Dado Blade, you can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/OMWdcCunMaY/v-deo.html

We have actually just REDUCED our prices across the board for the SECOND time since Covid. The molds are expensive, the price of plastic is directly tied to oil prices, and a lot of people are involved in the process of making and distributing any product. They all need to be paid fairly.